Review: Vancouver’s Published on Main named Canada’s Best Restaurant, major award went to Major Tom in Calgary

Chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson at Published on Main, Vancouver, in November 2020.Jackie Dives / The Globe and Mail

Vancouver’s Published on Main was named Canada’s Best Restaurant, and Major Tom of Calgary was nominated for Best New Restaurant among Canada’s Top 100 Restaurants.

This is the first time the Vancouver restaurant has earned first place on the annual list, which returns after a one-year break. The ranking was unveiled Monday night at an event in Toronto and voted on by more than 100 judges across the country.

“We didn’t hang out,” said chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson. “We wanted to be the best restaurant in Canada.”

Toronto’s Alo, which ranked first in the previous four years, is St. John’s in Vancouver. Lawrence, Pearl Morissette Restaurant at Jordan Station, Ont., And Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Ont.

Nine of the top 20 new restaurants, this year’s new list, are from Western Canada, including DOP in Calgary, Eight and Nupo (third, seventh and 10th). Pluvio in Ucluelet, BC, was named the best new destination restaurant.

On the list of the top 50 Canadian bars that were released at the same time, Toronto’s Civil Liberties topped Bar Raval, which had been the winner in the previous three years. The Vancouver Botanist and Keefer Bar placed second and third. Vancouver Laowai and Blnd Tiger in fourth place were named the best new bar.

Published, which contains an extravagant tasting menu of 20 or more courses, rose from 88th place in 2020, which is a very decent location given that it was only open a few weeks when this review was closed.

“Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson translates Nordic sensibility into British Columbia cuisine through the abundant use of delicately balanced fermentations, aerated hay creams and feed ingredients, trampled through local forests to collect most wildflowers, fir and mushrooms,” the guide said. reads.

“But it also relies heavily on its Manitoban German heritage with excellent steaks, roasts and Markkloesschen beef soup (exchanged for nettle dumplings in game broth in the spring). And as thoughtful Vancouver chefs who are trying to evoke a real sense of place, he deftly incorporates dashi tomatoes, koji beurre blancs and other Asian flavors. ”

Jacob Richler, editor-in-chief and publisher of the list, said that when restaurants express a distinct sense of place with their food, people usually notice.

He also notes that restaurants in western Canada may have been successful this year because they have not been closed to public health restrictions for as long as restaurants in Ontario and Quebec.

Mr Stieffenhofer-Brandson acknowledges this advantage.

“This list is definitely not based on a level playing field, because we have had the opportunity to run much more than other restaurants and I do not take it for granted,” he said. “Oh no.” [mean] we didn’t have it hard either. We took the time to add a tasting menu, really fine-tune our food and dive deeper into what we do, instead of just drowning on proven ground. ”

Or, as the guide says, “When the others backed down, Published on Main swung.”

Top 10 on the list of the top 100 Canadian restaurants:

1. Published in Main, Vancouver

2. Hello, Toronto

3. St. Lawrence, Vancouver

4. Restaurants in Pearl Morissette, Jordan Station, Ont.

5. Langdon Hall, Cambridge, Ont.

6. Vin Mon Lapin, Montreal

7. Edulis, Toronto

8. Canoe, Toronto

9. Boulevard, Vancouver

10. River Café, Calgary

Source: The Canadian Press

Top 10 on the list of the 20 best new Canadian restaurants

1. Major Tom, Calgary

2. Osteria Giulia, Toronto

3. DOP, Calgary

4. Bernhardts Tavern, Toronto

5. Pompette, Toronto

6. Mimi Chinese, Toronto

7. Eight, Calgary

8. Pichai, Montreal

9. The Pine, Collingwood, Ont.

10. Nupo, Calgary

Source: The Canadian Press

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